(Preview: This post is a bit lengthy, but I wanted to write a relatively comprehensive guide)
I’m sending my significant other out on her own to go boot shopping for the first time. It’s a big deal for her, as boots are really the first major equipment purchase when getting started in backpacking, and they’re easily the most important purchase she’ll ever make, as she’ll be on her feet for anywhere from 8 to 12 hours a day on our adventures.
As I stated previously, boots are one of the few things that are worth spending a little extra money for, as the difference in quality between a pair of $100 boots and a pair of $200 boots with comparable features is usually pretty significant. Aside from general comfort and keeping your feet happy, blisters, sprained ankles, and frostbite will either end your trip or make it miserable, and you need to have confidence in your footing every step of the way to avoid slipping/falling on the trail and injuring yourself.
Although I won’t be with her when she tries on boots, I gave her some pointers from my own experiences and suggested a couple specific boots she look at closely. First thing I have her focusing on is the basics, which, regardless of anything else, your boots must have!
- Comfort: Certain brands tend to favor certain foot types, and I’ve tried on boots that I absolutely loved in the past that just didn’t fit me at all because my foot is a bit on the wider side. Try to find a brand that fits your foot, otherwise it just won’t be comfortable, and having boots that are comfortable enough that you can keep wearing them around camp even after you’re done hiking all day is a huge plus, because it means you don’t have to haul around a second pair of footwear for “camp shoes” in your pack. Most modern hiking boots are designed to be worn right out of the box without too much of a break in period, so I’d be leery of boots that pinched any part of my foot (top or bottom) or were uncomfortable in any way as I was trying them on in the store.
- Slide: There’s a happy medium between a boot with room for your foot to slide around a little, but not too much. If there’s no room to slide, your toes will jam into the front of the boot going downhill, and the pinch will result in unhappy toes. If there’s too much room to slide, your heel may rub against the back of the boot, and the friction will result in blisters. This is one you’ve gotta get right, so take your time when trying on boots.
Two tips for shoppers: Wear the socks you plan to hike in, and try boots on later in the day, when your feet are a bit more swollen from use. This will help simulate conditions on the trail.
There are a couple other major factors to consider when buying boots, especially for the first time:
- Traction: I live in Pennsylvania. It’s been said that a squirrel could run the length of the state without ever touching the ground, but for a region with such densely wooded forests, that squirrel would be amazed how much rock we have on the hiking trails, especially the AT. Some sections have small, pointy rocks (6-16” in diameter) so densely peppered on the trails that you have to walk on the tops of them the whole time, and other sections have large granite boulder fields. Either way, traction for rocks is a must, and there are other places (Black Hills, Rocky Mtns, White Mountains, etc.) where traction on rocks is a big consideration. Vibram soles are usually what I look for here, and some retailers have fake boulders in the story that you can use to test booth traction. If I can’t stick to a rock when it’s dry, then I’m in big trouble when the rocks are wet. The last thing I’d like to do is slip off a wet rock, fall down and bash my head on another nearby rock. In other parts of the country, such as the Redwood National Forests, the trails may be relatively flat, well groomed, with little to no rock traversing, so traction may not be as much of an issue there. Traction needs are largely based on what type of trails you’ll be hiking, which tend to vary from region to region. If you want to err on the side of caution, always plan for rocks. In my experiences, traction on boots tends to vary rather inconsistently. Some heavy duty backpacking boots have surprisingly poor traction, while some lightweight hiking boots and shoes have incredible traction.
- Stability/Cushioning: I have pretty bad ankles, especially my right ankle, which has been fractured once, sprained twice, and undergone major surgery to have bone spurs and arthritic scar tissue removed. I would love to be able to get away with something resembling a sneaker while hiking, but I just can’t. If you have strong ankles and can manage without boots, hiking shoes tend to be a little more comfortable, a little more nimble, and a lot less heavy (most mid-cut hiking boots also come in a lower cut shoe). If, like me, you need the stability because you’re at a high risk for ankle sprains, wearing a boot that comes up over the ankle is non-negotiable. Just be aware that with more stability and cushioning comes more weight, and sometimes higher prices. Terrain is a consideration here, as well. Some of the trails (especially in the national parks) are very well groomed or even paved with gravel, so stability isn’t as much of a concern, but if you plan to do hiking on more rugged/rocky terrain, you want to be able to trust your footing, especially if you’re carrying weight on your back. Anything under 25 pounds, I wouldn’t worry too much about extra cushioning or stability, although I’d always recommend a replacement insole over whatever comes in the shoe, and it’s okay to err on the side of caution here, too. If you plan to carry above 25 pounds in your pack, I’d at least take that into consideration and look for a boot that’s got a bit more meat on it to help you cushion that load and give your ankles stability with the added weight.
- Breathability: My feet are sweaty. I’ve worn the thinnest possible socks only to have them drenched after 90 minutes of hiking. It’s just a fact of life. In the past, I’ve run into trouble with heavy duty boots that have a waterproof liner (most boots today have some type of waterproof liner) because my feet get hot and sweat inside the boot. With the waterproof membrane inside the shoe, there’s nowhere for that heat and moisture to escape so my feet get soaked and prune up, and that’s when I get into serious trouble with blisters. The season(s) in which you plan to hike are also a huge consideration here. For hiking in warmer temperatures, I go for synthetic/mesh boots without a waterproof liner of any kind, because they are much, much more breathable, which help keep my feet more cool and dry. I’m not worried about rain or water getting my feet wet, because the temperature isn’t cold enough to be a problem and the highly breathable boots tend to dry much more quickly. If you don’t have sweaty feet, then you don’t need to worry as much about breathability concerns with a waterproof liner. In general, having the liner is a huge advantage because you can hike in the rain and ford streams without your feet getting as wet. If you’re hiking in cooler temperatures (late fall, winter, early spring), then having a boot with a waterproof liner is essential, and doubling down on a boot made of leather doesn’t hurt either (although you’re looking at a heavier, more expensive boot at that point) With colder temperatures, you may be potentially hiking in snow, and wet feet leads to cold feet leads to frostbite. Even though I have sweaty feet, I still have a pair of boots with a Gore Tex liner for use in the colder months, and I love tromping around through snow and creeks with the knowledge that my feet will be dry at the end of the hike.
- Weight: In general, the rule of thumb is to go with as little weight as possible, but weight is also not as much of a concern for me as the other three factors (more of a luxury), especially stability, with which weight shares an inverse relationship. If you can manage a hiking shoe over a boot, go for it, because it will weigh next to nothing and after 10 miles of trekking you can definitely feel like you have cement feet if you’re hiking in big bulky boots. If you’re carrying more weight on your back and choose a boot with more stability and cushioning, it’s going to be a bit heavier, which still isn’t the end of the world. Most weekend warriors aren’t going to need a pair of bulky mountaineering boots with a super duty sole and full leather, either, so it shouldn’t be too hard to find a pair of boots under or around 3 pounds, the key is finding boots that are as lightweight as your other needs will allow.
Here are some different contexts for consideration:
- Day Hikes: Since you’re probably hiking in decent weather with no weight on your back, a shoe or small boot is good here. You don’t need as much stability and cushioning, so you can focus on something light and breathable with good traction to help make your walk easy and pleasant.
- Overnight/Summer Backpacking: Backpackers tend to have less gear on overnight trips (especially in the summer), so pack weight may not be significant enough to influence your decision too much. If you can swing a shoe or a small boot, you’ll be okay, and you’ll appreciate less weight and more breathability, but don’t skimp on stability if you need it.
- Multi-day/non-Summer Backpacking: Backpackers will have more gear on longer trips and in the winter when warmth is an issue, and pack weight could easily reach 30 to 40 pounds, which becomes a serious consideration. At this point, I’d say you should be looking for a boot that has better stability and cushioning, which means its going to be a little heavier, and possibly less breathable.
It’s possible I may get my significant other on here for a guest post about her experiences at REI buying boots for the first time, and I’ll to provide updates on what she ends up choosing.
Feel free to leave feedback regarding your experiences when it comes to hiking/backpacking boots in the comments section. As always, thanks for reading!
Keep Calm, Trek On 